One of the most surprising things about summer in Athens is how quickly the city gives way to the sea. Leave the Acropolis behind, follow the coast south, and within a short time the landscape changes completely. Marinas, beaches, pine-covered coves and elegant seaside neighbourhoods begin to replace the dense urban centre. This is the Athens Riviera — a stretch of coastline extending from Palaio Faliro through Glyfada, Voula, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, and continuing towards Cape Sounion. While it may not have the remote-island feeling of the Cyclades, its greatest advantage is precisely that it does...